Some Great Things About Compost
Why Make Compost?
It’s cheap!!! You can make one of nature’s
best mulches and soil amendments without spending a dime
– and it can be used instead of commercial fertilizers,
reducing storm water pollution! Using compost helps to
improve soil structure, texture, and aeration, as well
as increasing the soil’s water holding capacity
by loosening clay soils and helping sandier soils retain
water. The organic matter provided by compost provides
food for microorganisms in the soil; these little critters
then naturally produce nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium,
cutting down your need to add those nutrients to your
soil!
ALSO… about one-third
of the space in landfills is taken up by organic waste
from our yards and kitchens – just the type of stuff
that would make great compost! So, don’t throw away
materials when they could be used to improve your lawn
and garden – start composting instead!!
HOW, you may ask….
Well, compost is the final product of a complex feeding
pattern involving hundreds of different organisms including
bacteria, fungi, worms, and insects. After these organisms
break down organic materials, humus is formed. Humus is
a rich, earthy substance that helps to keep the soil light
and fluffy. You can speed up the composting process by
knowing optimum conditions of heat, moisture, air and
materials… this makes good soil faster and the heat
created by rapid compost formation will destroy plant
diseases and weed seeds in the pile.
Compost Materials
Just about any organic material is suitable for a compost
pile; you just need to make sure you’ve got a good
ratio of carbon-rich materials (“browns”)
and nitrogen-rich materials (“greens”). Browns
include dry leaves, straw, wood chips, etc; greens include
grass clippings and kitchen scraps. Mixing these types
of materials can make a difference in the decomposition
process, but achieving the best proportions can be more
of an art than a science. Too many browns will cause the
pile to break down too slowly, while too many greens can
cause odor problems – the browns provide energy
for the microbes while the greens provide protein. The
ideal ratio approaches 25 parts browns to one part greens
(by weight).
Some tips:
• |
Some
species of trees, such as live oak, magnolia, and
holly, have leaves that are too tough and leathery
for easy composting. |
• |
Avoid all parts
of black walnut trees as they contain a plant poison
that survives composting. |
• |
Eucalyptus leaves
can be toxic to other plants. |
• |
Avoid using poison
ivy and other such poisonous plants. |
• |
Pine needles should
be chopped or shredded, as they decompose slowly
– but they also make great mulch for wintering! |
• |
Fresh grass clippings
tend to clump together, become anaerobic, and start
to smell – To avoid this, be sure they are
mixed with plenty of other materials, or spread
them out to dry in the sun for at least a day, so
they can be used without danger of souring. |
• |
Meat, meat products,
dairy products, and high fat foods like salad dressings
and butter can cause problems, usually by smelling
bad and attracting pests. |
• |
To take advantage
of the earthworms, beneficial microbes, and other
decomposers, which will migrate up and down as seasons
change, build your pile over soil or lawn rather
than concrete or asphalt. |
• |
If the pile becomes
too dry, the decay processes will slow down. Too
much water is just as detrimental because that will
create anaerobic environment, slowing decomposition.
Be sure you build you pile to allow for drainage,
and add water if necessary. In general, you should
be able to squeeze just a few drops out of a handful
of compost-like a moist sponge. |
• |
Air circulation
is an important element of a compost pile; most
of the more beneficial microbes need air to survive.
If using easily compacted materials, such as ashes
or sawdust, try mixing them with coarser material.
– Large compost piles may even need ventilation
tubes. |
• |
Turning your pile
with a large garden fork allows for uniform decomposition.
The object of turning is to end up with the material
that was on the outside of the original pile (on
the top and sides) being moved into the middle of
the restacked pile. |
• |
Yard and kitchen
waste can be composted in simple, 3-sided holding
units, or in tumbling compost bins, which can be
purchased in from a variety of stores. |
Using Compost:
Finished compost is dark brown, crumbly and earthy-smelling.
One inch is usually a thick enough layer to be spread
on your garden beds; depending on the climate, compost
will need to be replenished every year or two years. Some
people recommend late fall as a good time to spread compost.
After spreading the compost, cover it with winter mulch,
such as chopped leaves. By the spring, soil organisms
have worked the compost into the soil. Others recommend
working the compost into the soil yourself, about two
weeks before planting in the spring. There really is no
wrong time!!! The benefits will remain the same.
Worms – a Composter’s
Best Friend
Vermicomposting, or worm
composting, is different than traditional composting.
It is a process that uses red earthworms (a.k.a redworms)
which consume organic waste. These redworms then produce
castings, which are odor free and great for use as a mulch,
soil conditioner, and topsoil additive.
Vermicomposting is especially
useful when composting food scraps, as they help break
down the organic matter more rapidly and reduce odor problems.
Vermicomposting doesn’t produce high enough temperatures
to kill pathogens, so it works best with food, paper,
and yard waste.
For faster degradation,
food scraps should be shredded or chopped; larger materials
take longer to break down. Vermicomposting, however, doesn’t
need a specific carbon-to-nitrogen ration like traditional
composting methods.
What you will need to
get started:
Container: The size of
your container will determine the number of worms you
can keep. A 38 qt. Rubbermaid container will hold approximately
300 worms. The container should have a lid to conserve
moisture and provide darkness. Drill holes in the lid
to provide ventilation.
Bedding: Worm bedding
may include soil, worm bedding (available in the fishing
section of most discount stores), and sawdust or one-inch
strips of newspaper. A combination of these is best. Moisten
the bedding with water, but do not let puddles form at
the bottom of the container. The worms need moisture to
breathe, and may drown if the bedding is saturated. Bedding
should be completely changed every three to six months.
Worms: Redworms, Eisenia
foetida, commonly known as red wigglers, can be purchased
at bait shops or ordered on-line. Redworms are best suited
for worm composting because they are natural surface feeders.
This is important because other types of worms will not
surface to consume refuse you feed them.
Food: Refuse to include:
vegetable and fruit peels, crushed eggshells, tea bags,
and coffee grounds. Do not include: meats, dairy products,
or oily foods because of potential problems with odors
and flies. Avoid attracting fruit flies by burying the
refuse in different locations around the container. Worm
food is also available to assist with feeding the worms.
Supplementing food may be necessary in a classroom setting
because worms eat their weight in food each day.
Worms will try to escape
if temperature or moisture is not appropriate.
The worm container should be kept out of direct sun and
extreme temperatures. It may be necessary to lift bedding
frequently to check the moisture level and to create air
spaces allowing free movement for the worms.
Further information can
be obtained from two books written by Mary Appelhof: Worms
Eat My Garbage and Worms Eat My Garbage: Classroom Activities
for a Better Environment
